A Photographic History of Market Square

The intersection of Market, Central, North & South Main Streets was traditionally known as “Market Square” but more recently as “Five Corners.” Today it also hosts Routes 1A and 133. Visitors to our town are inevitably fascinated by how traffic negotiates this unusual intersection with its own unwritten rules, and without a traffic light.

Market Square has had this configuration for over 300 years.
In 2022, the state proposed to remake the intersection to look like this.
The proposed reconfiguration of the intersection in 2025

The Bay Road

The first settlers of Ipswich forded the river near the present-day dam, just as native Americans had done for millennia. In November 1639, the General Court in Boston ordered that a road be laid out from Boston to Portsmouth. In January 1647, forty pounds sterling were appropriated to build the first wooden bridge at the site of Choate Bridge. By March, construction had begun, and it was “Ordered that the Surveyors shall take care to make good the passage at both ends of the Cart Bridge, sufficient for passages of horse and carts so soon as Carpenters have made it capable.” Thomas Clark and Thomas Wells, whose house lots were now in the path of the new road, were granted replacement lots elsewhere in town.

The “Bay Road“, also known as the Eastern Post Road, was to be constructed by each town along the way, and milestones carved in stone were installed to indicate distances. Sections of the Bay Road are today’s Route 1A. The route went through Ipswich, making it an important stagecoach stop along the way in the 18th and early 19th centuries. Several inns flourished on North Main Street near Market Square, including Spark’s Tavern, where the Salem witch trials ended, and Treadwell’s Inn, where Essex County voted to create the Provincial Congress. On the right side were the Ipswich Female Seminary and beside it, the Dr. Thomas Manning House, a stop on the Underground Railroad, still stands.

Lower North Green, Ipswich MA
John Stacey’s 1733 house sat at this location and was moved to Market Street, so the town could widen the road to the Choate Bridge.

John Stacey’s House

In 1733, John Stacey, “being incapable of labor,” petitioned the town that, “there is a convenience on the northerly side of the rock by Ebenezer Smith’s for setting a house upon…for selling cakes and ale for my livelihood.” Stacey’s petition was granted, and the house was constructed on the left side of the rocky ledge on the lower North Green, across from the former Spark’s Tavern, which was owned at that time by Ebenezer Smith. Stacey’s widow sold the property to John Wood, who sold it to Samuel Ross, a blacksmith, in April 1737. Ross added a blacksmith shop on the site to service the constant stream of horses and wagons heading up and down the hill.

It became increasingly obvious that the wooden cart bridge over the river was insufficient. and the County agreed to bear half the expense of constructing the Choate Bridge in 1764 at a total cost of £996. The blacksmith business thrived for Samuel Ross, and the next owners, Samuel Ross Jr. and Joseph Lakeman Ross.

1836 Ipswich Selectmen's document
In 1836, the Selectmen called a town meeting to consider a petition to widen the Choate Bridge and the road “over the Ross Estate” leading to it.

In March 1829, the Town and County began to consider plans for widening the Choate Bridge, which was now again too narrow for the great volume of stagecoaches passing through the Town. Joseph Wait and 194 others proposed that, in addition to widening the bridge, the Town should widen the road up the hill. The County Commissioners paid $800.00 to Joseph L. Ross, who removed the barn and blacksmith shop, and relocated the Stacey-Ross House to Market Street, where it stands today. After multiple delays by the town, the state ordered it to widen the Choate Bridge in 1837.

Images & Maps of Market Square

The 1794 Plan of Ipswich by Barnabas Dodge shows the Post Road curving in front of today’s Ipswich Public Library. Topsfield Road crossed to North Main Street, and the two roads intersected at the lower and upper ends of the North Green. Central Street wouldn’t exist for another sixty years.
1832 map of Ipswich
This close-up from the 1832 map of Ipswich shows how South Main and North Main were aligned. Central Street had still not been constructed.
Woodcut of historic Ipswich Town Hill
North Main Street angled up the hill in the middle of three roads in this 1839 woodcut of Ipswich Town Hill.
Split view of 1839 and today
1867 sketch of Marketplace Square shows the Choate Bridge on the far left. The buildings are in the location of the Caldwell Block (built circa 1870), home to the Choate Bridge Pub. The Old Stone Mill can be seen in the background.
An 1867 sketch of Market Square as viewed from the hill.
North Main Street in 1872
Layout of North Main Street in the 1872 map. Central Street had been built, but doesn’t yet show any buildings.
Looking up from the foot of the North Green in 1880. A bandstand once sat just below the rocks in the section on the right.
1884 map of Ipswich
The 1884 map of Ipswich showed a different configuration of roads on the Lower North Green, which may be an error.
Market Square in the 1893 Ipswich Birdseye Map
The Dr. Thomas Manning House is on the left, and the former Ipswich Female Seminary is to its right in this photo of Market Square.
1894 Central Street fire, Ipswich MA
Market Square in 1894, the day after the Central Street fire.
trolleys at Market Square in Ipswich
Trolleys at Market Square about 1900
Market Street in Ipswich, circa 1915
Market Square circa 1910
town_hill_4
Market Square about 1910
Market Square in the 1910 Ipswich map looks similar to today.
Market Square Ipswich
Market Square during WWI
Welcoming returning soldiers after WWI
The Whipple House being moved from Saltonstall Street to its present location at the South Green.
The Whipple House was moved from Saltonstall Street through Market Square and over the Choate Bridge to the South Green in 1927.
Old cars on Market St. in Ipswich
Looking down the hill toward Market Street, about 1930
north_common
This photo shows the old First Church when it was painted red.
Meeting House Green Ipswich aerial view
Aerial view of Meeting House Green and part of the lower North Green, taken during the first half of the Twentieth Century.
The Jones Block shops curved up the hill from the bridge, about 1920
In the 1950s, traffic from Market Street could cross straight up the hill, and cars went down the angled section. Later, the directions were reversed.
Looking up toward the North Green from Market St.
Looking up toward the North Green from Market Street today.

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